So, I can say i had sooooo much fun riding this board. Wouldn't be my daily driver but had an insanely great time on it in glassy headhigh underwater left point waves down here. This is a 6'6 Simmons board built by Joe Bauguess for the Hydrodynamica Test Pilot Series. I'm really fortunate to get to surf with RK around town from time to time and, as the video has shown, he rips on these. I'm always asking to ride one, but it seems that we never connect. I don't think either of us really likes getting out of the water when the wave are good. Anyways, this board was built for Daniel Partch and of course he foiled his own set of fins for it and does for all the rest of the Simmons and Sim Fish boards that RK and Joe are making.
Performance: It took a few waves to adjust to having been riding my 12 footer around town, but once I paddled down to another reef and could get it to go front side, everything came together. First off, one of my main boards is my 7'0 Long Fish Simmons Quad so the length soon became comfortable. What I couldn't get over was how well they paddled in to waves. Almost like cheating! I think most are sub 6 foot. Anyways, once i figured out the bottom turn angle, the board just started to come alive with tons of drive and really held great through cutbacks. Did some bottom top turn combos and never got hung up, thinking that the width might make it sticky but not. And the trim!!!! Having come from the Frye line, my favorite thing to do is just stand mid board and trim through sections, well, this board definitely made some sections, actually got me down and around a few that really surprised me. The width in the tail had me worried about getting hit with the lip and or whitewash but this thing made it happen and I made so many more waves. There were a few quirks in certain parts of the pocket when coming into or out of a roundhouse cutback, but that was probably more pilot error than the board. But again, overall a very fun and different sliding experience and one that makes me want to have a few in the quiver. I better get on it, Joe is only in town for a little while, but Dan and I are lucky that Joe's shaping bay is just a few blocks away. You should get one too www.theswiftmovement.com for inquires.
What can I say about this picture. By far the most, heavy-not in my wildest dreams-could I believe this day would happen-type of picture of my life, to say the least. How do you show gratitude to a man like Skip? I would have to write a book about all the man has past on to me and taught me in life. But I don't think the words would come anywhere remotely close to describing the feelings I've experienced being able to spend as much time as I have with him. I mean, growing up and riding in the same car with him on my first trips to places like Swami's, San O or to meet Donald. Or like the first time I ever surfed the 'Bu and met him up there and as we paddle out the back with each other he turns and teaches me the line up spots and which waves to catch in the set. Can you believe that? Back then it was like living inside of a permanent dream. I'm with Skip at Malibu! He was in the van for the first Windansea trip up to the bu! Legendary! I mean, if Skip said hi to you in the water it was a big deal and here I am surfing the Bu with him? Freaking unbelievable! I mean that's Skip Frye man! And here I am so fortunate to have the man as a mentor to me, and to give me his blessing as I launch out in to the board building world with his roots firmly planted in me. If I could give one percent back to the sport of surfing like Skip has done, it would be a huge feat. He embodies what surfing is all about, the stoke of the aloha spirit. When all the corporate banners are taken down, and china built pop outs are removed, that's all that's left, the reason we all do it, for stoke of the aloha spirit. Skip's now in his 50th year of surfing and in my opinion he could have every right to be the grumpy, old bitter salty surfer out in the lineup complaining about crowds and talking story of how good it used to be, but he's not. In fact, he's more stoked now and is surfing more than he ever has in his life. I try to make people realize when out in the water with Skip, how lucky we are to have one of the last surfer/shaper/craftsmen still around us surfing and innovating and fine tuning designs. we should all just sit back and watch him surf, and not just surf, but absolutely rip a place apart. I'm thankful that we are able to help Skip out and get him what has been deserving of his entire career and now he can just focus on surfing. My gratitude to him is unexplainable. I couldn't begin to say thank you enough, to really show it. I'm seriously the luckiest person on the planet and I try to remember that every single day. I hope by continuing to build boards in his tradition I will be able to pass on the stoke which he passed on to me Thanks Skip!
Soryr to have been away this last week. My computer was on the fritz, taking 25 seconds for each little thing to click or load, including emails. It's lucky it's not in two pieces yet! Any ways just came across these pics while browsing around. Women's Longboard World Champ and good friend Jen Smith, riding a 5'4 J Hall twin fin. The board is clear but I think the gilrs went crazy with the Kyrlon!
Its extremely fun to do! JP over at Surfy Surfy enlightened me to some extremely funny and extremely talented photo shop editions of a post he put up a while back. Below are some of my favorites! I laughed for an hour looking at these things! There are some extremely talented people behind some of these, hmmm, maybe they'll want to do a t shirt?
It's that time of year again everyone! Come to downtown San Diego to celebrate this annual fundraiser for WiLDCOAST. The event formerly known as The Vanguard is being presented this year as The Sideways Riders Event. Sponsered by Essentials Gear Clothing, Art by Shay Vision Josh Hall Surfboards and Revolt Magazine; it will be a great evening of Art, Clothing, Music and Surfboards. Come early as this event looks to be a sell out. And yes, Eek a mouse is playing this year. It will be an amazing time to support an amazing cause. See ya there.